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Pine Deadwooding

The removal of accumulated deadwood within the crown of a Ponderosa Pine (or any other conifer) is chiefly cosmetic. This pruning procedure yields a (much) more visually pleasing tree, i.e., a tree with enhanced ornamental value. The ancillary benefits of deadwooding include:

reduced wind loading;
less ground litter;
better air circulation and sunlight infiltration;
mitigated structural defects;
abatement of hazards (old dead branches);
elimination of useless branch elements that contribute (by shading) to more deadwood.

The purpose of deadwooding a pine is to rid the tree of ALL dead wood from the top down. Dead branches are cut back to the trunk; dead branchlets are cut back to the branch. The removal of a branch which bears large amounts of dead while maintaining a good amount of green is gratuitous—the branch should be deadwooded, and retained.

In addition to the dead, green branch elements that are candidates for removal are:

obvious declining (soon to be dead);
smaller (doghair) laterals oddly appearing between whorls or in addition to the main whorl elements;
branchlets near the trunk and directed back to it;
branches of any size (suppressors) that create an inordinate level of competition;
errantly directed and rubbing limbs and branches (unless removal would create a visually obtrusive void);
the excessive elements of a witch’s broom or other anomalous growth (usually as a result of mistletoe);
entire, or portions of, vertical “branches” vying for leadership;
broken branches that are not or can not be stabilized.

All pruning cuts are made at the branch collar—neither leaving a stub nor cutting off the collar. Where thick bark hides the collar, the cut is made flush with the bark surface.

Rust galls should be cut away only if their ill effects are evident.

Dwarf mistletoe fruiting structures should be removed to the extent practical (usually what can be easily rubbed or knocked off). Some of the most interesting pine tree forms are created by mistletoe infection.

No attempt at creating a shape or size should be made. The better tree will be revealed by addressing the problems listed above.

All of this is accomplished by ROPE & SADDLE, NO-SPUR climbing.

— Rich Baker, 11 Oct 95

 

Do not use spikes to climb trees.


Urban Forest Council
423 West 1st Suite 240 • Spokane, WA 99201
(509) 838-4912 • info@saveourpines.org